Here are some suggestions:-
1Black
option at Driver Setting
Don't print with the "black" option
radio button clicked at the printer driver
as it produces awful results (ie no true grayscale) and lots of pixelation.
It may be economical but its also aethetically economical.
2"Colour
Slider method"
Much better to choose colour at
the print driver
and neutralise the colour cast with the colour adjustment sliders (eg if
green cast, i think use more magenta) at print settings. The correct slider
to use for a particular cast would be somthing other colour experts can
advise on, I only know from limited personal experience that using the
magenta does help get rid of green although I have not perfected it yet.
3Printing
in Duotone
Using the colour option (as discussed
in 2 above), another solution is to make the image a DUOTONE in photoshop
or any other image manipulation program capable of doing duotone where
you select black and another colour. The other colour's curves should be
adjusted such that where it is darkest, there should only be black, ie
the curve is not linear (unless you want that effect). In short, the duotone
option is best used to FORCE the picture to have a colour cast the
difference being, this time you can choose the colour cast
that you want. This does not solve the problem for those who want true
greyscale (at least i don't know what secondary colour to choose to get
that effect), but it sure gives you more control over the final output.
I like the sepia effect and this allows me to do that very effectively.
Also, there is a difference with
this duotone method and the colour slide method in the print settings (described
in (2) above): the duotone method allows you to specify where (eg in the
midtones) you want the secondary colour to appear, thus, allowing for superior
control of how black your blacks are and etc. The colour slider method
pumps more colour across the board when used, so theoritically, contrast
should be reduced. Whether this is visible, I don't know.
Finally, it may be that even if
duotone were used to remove colour cast, this can only be done with choosing
a secondary colour which will neutralise the original cast which you see
(which is likely to be due to the print driver calibration, ie something
we can't really change). However, as mentioned above, duotone allows you
to specify that the corrective coluor you choose to neutralise, is only
applied, say, in the midtones and not in the darkess areas. This should
give a, theoritical, higher contrast to the images.
Achieving
Sepia Tone
I have since
used, with the Epso Photo Paper, +10 yellow and +5 mag (i never use
ICM, PE2 or any of the other settings) and it gives it a slight sepia tone.
4Lab
- L Channel
I have also
tried converting to lab and printing the L channel (In PHOTOSHOP) but that
also gives an ever so slight green cast.
5Paper
I find that colour casts can vary
with different papers or films used. Try alternating between settings for
different papers (eg use 'glossy film' instead
of 'photo paper'). For instance, the Mitsubishi paper gives a greenish/cyan
cast when the photo paper setting is used but not when the glossy film
setting is used.