Introduction
I've received MIS Associates' Archival
Inks quite some time ago courtesy of MIS Associates' Bob Zeiss. I have
not tried them earlier since I had to refill the virgin carts which came
with the inks, a first for me. Naturally I took my own sweet time finding
out the do's and don'ts of refilling first. With a little spare time
this weekend, I decided to pop in the newly refilled cartridge containing
MIS's Archival Inks and let it rip. What prompted me to try the MIS
Archival Inks was also the Concorde Rag fine art paper which I had just
received from Dygraphics
Here are some basic links which
will point you to the relevant information on MIS Archival Inks:-
Refilling the carts with MIS Archival
Inks
First, a quick word about refilling.
Do drop by my RefillGuide
at the Features section which has links to tips and suggestions
on refilling. I used 10cc syringes to refill the virgin empty carts which
came with the MIS Archival Inks kit set to me. You can refill your own
carts by simply purchasing just the inks from MIS or you could buy prefilled
MIS archival ink carts (see here).
I found refilling easy enough to
perform though it gets better with practice. Some hints:-
-
fill very slowly (this has
the biggest impact IMO on a good refill)
-
refill two or more carts at a go:
use one while you let the other sit. Then, when you take out the first
one to refill, you can pop in the other cart to use.
-
Let the refilled cart 'sit'
a while (eg a few days or 12 hours at least) so the ink bubbles within
the cart can dissipate.
My carts had been sitting for weeks
with the fill holes open. I noticed that the ink did seem well into the
sponge material and some evaporation had occured since ink did not appear
to spill out at the fill holes even when I tilted the cart (it used to).
Once I had inserted the cart in the printer, I ran a couple of nozzle cleans
and immediately went about flushing the printhead. After about 4 pages
of approx 80% coverage (various colors), I ran a couple of nozzle
cleans again just for good measure.
It is recommended that the ink
cart be removed right after installation to check for any dripping. I did
not do this since I figured that the immediate cleaning and flushing
should drain any excess ink out.
Flushing
As mentioned above, I set
about 'flushing' the printhead of the Epson OEM inks after I had inserted
the ink cart with MIS archival inks. This can be done by printing 2-3
80% pages. I printed roughly 4-5 pages just to be sure.
First test print
Then I printed my first page: the
results...banding! I was pretty sure some of the nozzles were clogged and
did a nozzle check (shoudl have done this first). Yes..clogs in black
and light magenta and light blue. So nozzle cleaning cycles again to try
to remove the clogs. After 3, I tried printing the nozzle check pattern
and found that only black and light magenta were clogged in one area of
the nozzle check pattern. I was anxious to see some results so I started
printing more pages. The banding was still there. This is not microbanding
we are talking about but banding which was very obvious. I was not
surprised since I had rushed through the refilling process and had
noticed many large air bubbles in the cart. I had hoped letting the cart
sit for weeks would help. I guess the best advice is that refilling should
be done very slowly as doing so really makes a difference (I only
filled two of the chambers (the first two!) very slowly and can say that
there was a noticeable difference).
Anyway, I preservered with my test
prints and found that roughly around the 4th printout (not counting flushing
prints), I started to get really good results. The banding gradually dissappeared
until by the 5th printout, I got the first banding-free printout on the
New Epson Photo Paper.
Papers tested
I used MIS Archival inks with 3
different papers:-
-
New Epson
Photo Paper
This is my photo paper of choice
for its longevity and overall versatility from being Epson designed.
-
Konica QP
The famous Konica QP...super glossy,
super heavy weight.
-
Concorde
Rag fine art paper
Newest fine art paper from Dygraphics
that has been winning compliments from many pros.
Criteria
I used Jack Fouquette's (paper
review) criteria (with some amendments) for evaluating paper when
I looked at the printouts I had produced with the MIS Archival inks:-
COLOR.
I look out for whether the printout looks warm, neutral or cold and general
comments. The lack of measuring apparatus (eg colorimetre), prevents me
from getting really specific in my comments.
DETAIL
A look at how detail is rendered. Main culprit is bleeding.
GRAIN/BANDING
This criteria covers graininess, visibility of banding and other types
of 'noise' which can be seen from the printout.
BUILDUP
The presence or absence of unpleasant surface buildup in black/dense
areas, noticeable when tilting to get reflections from the surface
Here are my preliminary
findings
1NEW
EPSON PHOTO PAPER
Being the preferred photo paper
for me, I tested this paper first. From the 3-4 test prints I had done,
I gathered the following:-
............................................................
.................... ....................
|
Color
|
Generally -Definitely need
some tweaking. Not surprisingly, colors come out different from Epson inks
using the same settings. Generally, the printouts with MIS inks tended
towards the blue and had distinctly less yellow outlook.
Saturation - Off the bat
(ie without tweaking) colors look generally less vibrant than the Standard
Epson inks. This could be due to in correct settings rather than the lack
of gamut in the MIS Inks. So I cranked up the colour sliders in the print
driver and was able to produce deep and saturated colors. I then used the
Photo-Quality Inkjet paper (PQIP) setting which gave very deep colours
and a high-contrast look. However, using this setting gave
a color shift compared to using the Photo Paper or Glossy Film setting.
The above are not exactly the
best or only method of getting more intense colours but the ability of
the MIS inks to produce deep/saturated colours shows to me it has the potential
to do so. More on this later.
B&W Grays turn
out with obvious green cast (much more so than with standard epson inks)
and some crossover (magenta).
Black My impression is
that the blacks do not appear as deep as normal epson inks. See buildup
below.
............................................................ |
|
Detail
|
Overall very good in that it is
similar to Epson inks. No bleeding. Edge sharpness is also on par with
Epson inks. I used PhotoQuality Inkjet Paper setting ("PQIP) for the following
printout which shows the detail (see words):-
<<<MIS
inks on New Epson Paper using PQIP Setting>>>
............................................................ |
|
Buildup
|
There is buildup in black areas.
The ink also appears to leave some 'residue' when I rubbed the printout.
This is not really a problem since the amount of 'residue' that comes off
is very very little (looks like 'dust' on my finger tips). The buildup
is probably causing the blacks to look less deep than the normal Epson
inks.After one nite, the 'dust' rubbing off the prints is no longer observable.
............................................................ |
|
Grain/Banding
|
Graininess looked equal to Epson
inks on this paper. Minimal microbanding in some areas, no more than I
would see with Epson inks. Banding was only a problem with the first
few prints which I put to refilling-related problems.
............................................................ |
2KONICA
QP
THe famous Konica QP glossy paper
which has a fabulous weight and finish to it:-
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|
Color
|
Generally - Good results
though somewhat 'off' from Epson inks.
Saturation - quite good.
Black My impression is
that the blacks do not appear as deep as normal epson inks because of the
obvious builup. See "buildup" below.
............................................................ |
|
Detail
|
Overall very good though I did
get some banding.Edge sharpness is also on par with Epson inks. The size
of the following scan is approximately 1 inch across.
<<<Konica
QP with MIS archival inks>>>
............................................................ |
|
Buildup
|
There is very obvious buildup
in areas with black. The print does not emerge from the print dry. Black
areas still look wet and when I rubbed the printout, the ink came off.
See the scan below
.
<<<Inks
Rub off>>>
............................................................ |
|
Grain/Banding
|
Graininess looked equal to Epson
inks on this paper. Banding is somewhat of a problem in quite a few areas.
............................................................ |
3CONCORDE
RAG
Just received this fine art
paper from Dygraphics
. I thought it woud be good to see how MIS inks look on textured fine art
paper like the Concorde. I have a short article on this paper here,
the relevant portion of it has been reproduced below:-
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Color
|
Generally - Generally,
the printouts with MIS inks on this paper tended towards blue as well.
B&W Grays also
turn out with obvious green cast as it did when I used EPson Photo Paper
(mentioned above).
Black Very deep blacks.
............................................................ |
|
Detail
|
Just have a look at the following:-
Clearly bleeding is a problem. I used Glossy Film settings to reduce the
amount of ink going into the Concorde Rag but bleeding is still evident.
Dan Culbertson has reported great results with the Concord Rag and MIS
archival inks used in his Stylus 3000 (4 colour printer). The words on
the printout can't be made out at all except for "Kodak Color Control
Patches".
<<<Concorde
Rag with MIS Archival inks>>>
Comparethe
above with the scan below of Concord Rag with Epson inks done
with Glossy Film setting. Look at how the words are significantly sharper
(for instance, the word "GretagMacbeth" can clearly be seen).
<<<Concorde
Rag with Epson Inks>>>
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|
Buildup
|
There is no observable build-up.
Blacks print very deep.
............................................................ |
|
Grain/Banding
|
I observed some 'mottling' or
"sogginess" that with the printout. Looks like too much ink is laid
down on the paper. I tried using the Glossy Flim setting but that
only remedied the effect a little.
Banding: -no observable
banding or microbanding..
............................................................ |
Conclusions
Water
resistance I printed some test prints using MIS Archival ink
on plain paper and found that the printout did not run if I rubbed
the print. That's a great relief to know and may be a solution to the problem
runny printouts on plain paper. So if you have an important report (which
needs colour, otherwise just use a laser printer!), using this ink can
give you peace of mind that the person reading it won't 'destroy' your
precious report by spilling water over it or reading it with clammy hands!
This is just a preliminary look.
I will update this page and perhaps change the title of this article to
MIS: Full Report! (if inks and paper supply permit). The problem with some
of the results I got are clearly the result of not using the proper
profile with the various types of non-Epson paper. I'm still struggling
with this topic so until I find out more (or if someone writes something
for this site), here's inkjetmall's
guide
to color management
What would be great: manufacturers
(not just MIS), should provide profiles or tips on the use of their
products. This would really help buyers decide to try their products as
there should be less experimenting (hence less costs) for the Buyer. I
must say that MIS has been very progressive in their development and marketing
of consumables for the Epson printers and I hope that they continue with
their superb work. Can't wait to try their Cobra Continuous Ink system! |