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Photo
Inkjet printers.Background
& Comparison
March 1999
Inkjets
and a comparision of certain,
current
inkjet printers
by David Chien
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Color
Either way, some inks are made permanent, while others are not. You can test this by smearing parts of an image with a wet finger. With non-permanent inks, you will see substantial smearing similar to watercolors. With permanent inks, you may see a bit of smearing caused by the movement of the top layer of loose ink particles as you smear the image, but the majority of the ink that has entered the paper will remain in place. Pigment-based inks usually produce colors that are more saturated and dark, especially black, however, this will also depend on paper and technologies used. Color gamut is the range of colors that can be reproduced. A small gamut means certain colors can not be reproduced. Often, fluorescent colors, metallics, and extremely bright highlights cannot be reproduced on most imaging devices, whether they be printers, monitors, or whatnot. The human eye can detect a much wider gamut than any output device that has been created by man. (Refer to the CIE color charts for additional information on this topic.) As a result, all printers can never display the full range of colors one sees in real life, just like a photograph does not display the full range, either. Again, hard-to-get colors like fluorescents can not be duplicated by most imaging devices. Inkjet printers have traditionally used three or four colors, and mixed them together on paper, to create their images. Recently, some printers geared towards photo printing have adopted six or seven color printing to increase the color gamut. This is similar to the increased gamut that is available in traditional offset printing through the use of 6-color systems such as Hexachrome. On any color scale, you see smoother steps between colors and a smoother gradiant overall when you increase the number of colors used. This is similar to drawing with crayons. If you have only black and white, the intermediate grays are difficult to produce easily and accurately through the mixing of these two color. However, if you add a couple shades of gray crayons, then the task becomes easier and the gradiants between black-to-gray-to-white are much smoother as well. On three color inkjets, they are usually cyan, magenta, and yellow - abbreviated using the first character of each color as CYM. On four color inkjets, they are usually CYM plus black, and again, abbreviated as CYMK. On six color or seven color inkjets, they are usually CYMK plus two colors chosen by the manufacturer as what they belive to be the best two colors at increase the color gamut for their printer. There is no standard in this area. However, usually, two of the 'darker' looking colors are duplicated, but with lighter shades. Thus, you may have two cyans, one lighter than the other, and similarly, two magentas. You may abbreviate this by using lower case letters for the lighter shade, and thus a six-color printer with CYMK and two shades of magenta and cyan can be abbreviated as CcYMmK. So how do you produce black if you have a cheap printer that holds a single CMY color cartridge? Well, mathematically and in theory, if you combine the three colors, cyan, magenta, and yellow, together, they should absorb all light and reflect none, and thus create black. However, in reality, everyone, especially commercial printers, know that what you actually get is a muddy dark brown-black color that isn't truly black at all because real pigments and colors don't mix perfectly. This very reason is why we have 4-color printing presses and inkjet printers that have the extra color, black (B), as well. We use B instead of a combination of CYM whenever we want true black to appear on paper. Resolution Resolution can be measured in many different ways depending on the output technology being measured, and guages the fineness of detail that can be produced. For inkjet printers, dots per inch (dpi) is the standard applicable measurement of resolution. If the printer can place 300 dots next to each other on a straight one inch line, the resolution is 300 dpi. This also means that the printer is not capable of putting a dot between any pair of dots on that 300 dpi line, and cannot print a line that 1/600th of an inch wide, only 1/300th of an inch wide. Lines per inch (lpi) and other ways of measuring resolution do not apply to inkjet technology because they are not designed to be used on inkjet outputs, only offset printing technology and other methods. (Refer to Yahoo! and printing documents for complete details on lpi, etc.) Naturally, finer/higher resolution will give you better images in general with less grainiess and better detail. However, at the same time, the inkjet dots must also become smaller at higher resolutions. If they don't, you won't be able to create a dot that fits in a 1/(dpi raiting) area and the printer will not be able to print details at the highest resolution it can. Paper bleeding affects this and some printers with high resolutions may not be able to produce output as good as printers with lower resolutions due to bleeding. Of course, higher resolution means more data, and this means there has to be more data sent to the printer from the computer. This may or may not affect overall print time (this is more mechanically and physically based and limited). As an example, to print one 1-dot wide, 1" line on a 300 dpi printer, you must send information to the printer on those 300 dots. You double that information when you print a 1-dot wide, 1" line on a 600 dpi printer. (This doesn't include considerations for data compression, etc., but is valid for color printing in general.) Dot
Size As an example, the Epson Stylus 740 uses a 6 picolitre droplette while the HP 712/720/890/1120 series (HRET II printers) uses a 10 picolitre droplette, and the HP 2000 uses an 8 picolitre droplette. When viewed at 30x magnification, the Epson 740 dots are smaller than the HP dots, thus resulting in the reduced graininess in Epson printouts and smoother gradiants. As a result of using smaller dots, you may be producing dots that are smaller than 1 / resolution, but if done correctly (eg. Epson 740), you will get much smoother gradiants and better printouts. A good example of this is the HP series. The newer ones that have the HRET II technology can vary dot sizes from big to small. They still run on the same 600 dpi resolution as older models but can produce better looking pictures (not as good as the top rated inkjets though due to lower resolution). Older inkjet printers use larger droplettes and the quality of prints are lower. Currently, the Epson Stylus 900 is the leader this category, using a 3 pl. droplette size. It is of interest to note that this information on droplette sizes (and resolution in HP's case for the 720/890/1120) is/was not commonly published nor made available to US consumers for some time, but was made available through detailed advertisements for inkjet printers in the Japanese computer magazines. Obviously, this fool's ploy to 'trick' 'dumber?' US consumers into thinking inferior printers such as the HP's with HRET II (only 600x600 dpi! 4-color, old technology!) could beat higher resolution, greater color printers such as the 1440x720 Epsons/Canon or the 1200x1200 Lexmark's was a poor marketing tact to take. I'm sure a lot of disappointed HP customers are now wondering why even regular photos of people on their very best HP Photo paper have distinctively visible graininess throughout the faces. (Even my official HP print sample on photo paper shows this!) Let's face the facts. Unless you can produce effectively 'infinite' gradients and dot sizes like commercial print press, resolution and the number of colors used by an inkjet printer will still weigh very strongly in the final quality in the printouts. Thus, higher resolution and more colors will, in general, beat out printerss with lower resolution and fewer colors. Paper Paper is made of fibers and materials from natural plants, and may include additional materials, chemicals, coatings, etc. In general, when water is added to paper, it is absorbed to the extend the paper can carry. As it is absorbed into the paper, it may bleed outwards from the point of contact, sometimes in a spider-web like manner as it follows the fibers in the paper. This reduces the quality of inkjet output. However, sometimes, the manufacturers create paper that absorbs ink in a well-controlled manner. These inkjet papers are often recommended by manufacturers for the best output from their printers. Dots printed on inkjet paper tend to be well-defined and do not bleed very much at all. Additionally, special coatings added to the top of these papers increase the saturation, vividness, and color of most inkjet inks and allow for a wider gamut of colors to be created. Photo-quality inkjet paper/film is usually the top-of-the-line media created by these manufacturers and have a great deal of processing done to them to allow the highest quality prints to be made from their printers. More expensive than inkjet paper, and used for the final high-quality prints. In general, plain paper output has been one of the troublesome areas for most inkjet manufacturers. Some optimize/gear their printers for the best plain paper output, others for the best inkjet/photo paper outputs. Thus, your final selection of an inkjet printer will depend on the type of paper you will commonly use. Nevertheless, the lower quality of plain paper means that you will not see the best quality, highest resolution prints using these papers. Most papers have one side that is prefered for printing. Often, this is indicated by an arrow on the ream of paper, or by some other means. This side has been processed to handle ink better than the other side, so you should feed paper accordingly. Substantial differences will exist between images printed on the two sides. Finally, if you are using plain paper in your inkjet printer, you will see greatly varying results across different plain papers. You must test a range of plain papers to find those which give the best results with your inkjet printer. If you use the wrong plain paper, you will see heavy bleeding of ink around text, blurred graphics, and poor quality overall. Simply switching to another brand or type of plain paper can improve the crispness of text and graphics substantially. In fact, this is one cause of complaint for many new inkjet printer owners. They stick in regular paper and get crummy results, then assume all inkjet printers are bad. Not true. Most modern inkjet printers will give you decent results as long as you feed it the correct papers. Try differnt papers and you should be able to find one that minimizes the bleeding and defects of printing on plain paper. Of course, no such thing should occur on the manufacturer's inkjet or photo quality papers. (eg. Any Epson on Epson inkjet paper will produce crisp, vivid graphics and sharp text.) Comparing printers Try to print the same image on different prints using the paper appropriate and recommended by the manufacturs. Use settings recommended as well. Quality will vary depending on paper and settings, but if you are comparing photo prints on photo paper, you should be using the very best settings and paper. Using plain paper is not recommended as a good test unless you have the time to try out a wide variety (20+) of plain papers to find the one(s) that match that printer well. (See note above re: how the wrong plain paper can make a wonderful inkjet printer look horrible and the extreme variety of output you can get from different plain papers.) But, you can try plain paper to see if the inkjet can work decently on less-than- optimal plain papers. Preferably, also try to compare standard color test charts, especially those will color gradiant bars or graphs. These will reveal the smoothness the inkjets can achieve in blending from one color to another. First, ignore color casts. This is often something you can easily adjust later on when you've calibrated your printer, and almost all printers need some calibration before you can expect very accurate color output. However, in general, you will notice that the Epson printers tend to be very accurate in rendering colors; the HPs, a bit on the oversaturated-side to compensate for their plain-paper optimizations. Second, examine prints in a well-lit area. Looking at prints under darkness will do you no good. Thirdly, examine shadow areas. Often, smooth or textured areas will hide/mask the dots in an image and while that is nice, we're trying to compare the ultimate/highest quality that can be achieved. Thus, in shadow areas, you'll tend to see the most visible dots and the roughest gradiants possible. Fourthly, in a medium-lit area, not so bright that you have to squint, and not so bright that a beam from a strong flashlight can not be clearly seen over room lightling, use a 4 cell or greater flashlight (we want a very bright flash light here, not a dim 2 cell pocket flashlight) to examine the prints. Hold the flashlight so the beam comes at the prints from the side, almost parallel to the surface of the paper. You don't want to shine the beam perpendicular into the paper (like in a bright room) because the reflection off the paper will hide some artifacts. You will notice that you can now easily see all dots, artifacts, and grain in the printouts vs. viewing it regularly, and this will allow you to examine the printer quality more objectively. Sweep the beam across the page several times while examining the overall defects in the image. You should easily see the graininess of dots in the image, and the dithering patterns in the images you have produced. Finally, put the images underneath a 30x scope (easily obtained for $10-20 at any Radio Shack store for the pocket model) or photography loupe. Examine and compare dot sizes as this determines the graininess of your images. Examine for bleeding as this will affect the crispness of your images. And compare the sharpness or smoothness color areas are renedered. Sharp, distinct dots will be good for business printing, but dots that seem to mix smoothly are best for photo printing. As an example, the dots in all areas of an Epson Stylus 740 image are crisply defined and clearly distinguishable. On the other hand, those on the 700/EX models can be seen, but seem to mix well and color gradiants are rendered very smoothly. Naturally, no inkjet printer can get the same crispness in text and graphics as a laser printer on a wide variety of plain paper. Most of the time, you will see some defects such as bleeding around text when you use plain paper with inkjet printers. However, once you move to better paper, this will go away and you will get superb results with these printers. The Lexmark printers will tend to give the best, laser-like quality text on better plain papers, superior to what other inkjets can currently produce on plain papers. |
The Alps 1300, while not an inkjet printer, is a sub-dye printer available for under $500 US and creates output that is basically a photo in quality. You can not discern any dots at all, and unlike inkjet output, is fade-proof due to the use of solid colors vs. water-based colors. This is what I consider the baseline, or the ultimate, inkjet printers are trying to achieve in photo-quality (that is looks just like a photo) printing at any distance.
Ranking
- Business text &
Graphics Crisp text and sharp graphics on
a wide variety of plain and inkjet
Ranking
- Speed 1. HP 2000/2500
Subjective
Evaluation
I have recently been tested with 20/15 vision. Print samples were taken one at a time and viewed. I was turned 90 degrees away from the window so that I was not looking toward the light, nor looking in the opposite direction to prevent excessive light or glare from distoring the viewing process too much. I held each print sample at arms length, angled so that glare was minimized, and held at that distance for several seconds until my vision stabilized on the image and it looked like a photo. I then brought each image closer to my eyes until I could distinctively and clearly detect the dots in the image. I did not stop earlier when I thought it looked grainy or fuzzy, but when I could actually make out/see the dots stand out from each other. At those distances, I measured the distance with a tape measure, then continued to bring the images closer to my eyes. Several distances were measured for each image, and the areas in which the dots became visible are noted. Paper types are notes along with the image used (many of them are samples produced by the inkjet printer companies you may have seen in the stores yourself). Usually, black dots were visible and distinct well before color dots were. Then, dots appearing in faces and sky and finally, dots in color gradiants, areas where colors changed from one to another like on clothes and fruits. Some gradiants, those with extreme textures, such as sweaters, hid the dots very well and made them 'essentially' indistinguishable except at very close distance with prolonged examination. As an example, the texture of the red hair girl's sweater in the HP 712C printout, the house in Epson Stylus Color Photo 700 printout, and several HP Photosmart images. While mostly a subjective evaluation that will vary depending greatly on lighting, and on vision, health, and other factors, the figures below tend to be lower for those printers that are higher in photo inkjet print quality and close to actual photos in final image output.
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Printers
Epson Printers <<Epson site>>
is a little subduded vs. the 740/800/850; just slightly.
Awesome photo paper prints.
Almost as good as an Alps 1300 printer for photos (still can see some dots
here and there, esp. in gray scale areas). Very hard to discern the
dots on photo paper.
Best inkjet photo printer around
740 - 4-color printer, 1440x720
dpi.
Very rich blacks, vivid details
and colors, fine resolution, outstanding 'eye grabber'. Very
Supposedly their fastest inkjet printer for that size and 'replaces' the 800. Smaller dots vs. 800, but not as small as the 740. Prints on plain and inkjet paper are good. Bright colors thought not as vivid as an HP 720/890... series on plain paper, but HP does optimize for plain paper while Epson optimzes for photo/inkjet paper. Inkjet paper prints have are colorful, bright and vivid. 740 has better quality.
Yawn. Last year's models. Decent, but outdated. Still, better than the HP 720/890/1120/2000 on inkjet or better papers. Same dot sizes as the HPs.
tests,
the 800 was as fast or faster vs. the HP 890 in most tests (except Freelance
graphics and Photoshop page). The 850 is faster than the 800, and
one would think the 740 is as fast as the 800. In any case, these
are multi-minute printers. The only inkjet that's under $1000 that
I've seen which will throw out color pages like a slow laser printer is
the HP 2000 series. (Now that's a business printer! Zap, another
page, zap, another page....)
HP
Printers <<HP
site>>
Same 10 picolitre HP RET II techology.
printers,
and that's still true in general. Nevertheless, the Epson 740
will give these printers a run for color on plain paper, and the
Lexmark 7000 series has the very best black text on plain paper still.
Plain paper output is very good overall, with good saturation in colors, decently crisp text, and general reliablity in output overall. However, even on inkjet paper, dots are readily seen and quite visible. Photos of peoples faces, maps, detailed metalic reflections will all exhibit visible dots. Photo paper output does darken images and increase saturation, which hides some defects, but still images of faces and other areas of low-texture are covered with visible (ie. annoying) dots at handheld (12"+) distances. As an example, their Porsche Boxter demo printed on inkjet paper exhibits clearly noticible dots at handheld distances on the entire area of the trunk lid.
Quiter than the Epson printers when printing, and turns on very quickly. (eg. the Epsons occassionally do their multi-minute head cleaning when you turn them on and you have to wait until that's finished before you can print anything. Very noisy when doing this too, and printing.) Printheads are built-into the cartidges (Epson printers all have printheads fixed in the printers and are not replaced when you insert a new cartridge. Thus, replacing/repairing clogged Epson printheads can be expensive.) and replaced each time you replace the cartridge. HP printers tend to be workhorses and very reliable.
Imagine their 4-color printers running on 6-colors. Rich, vivid, smooth and saturated prints on photo paper. (this is a photo paper printer, don't bother with regular or inkjet paper at all.) Their dots are larger than the HPs w/RET II as listed above, but they've coupled the Photosmart printer with unique paper that blurs and blends the dots together almost completely. This results in prints that seem very smooth and photo-like, but at the slight loss of very fine image detail. Nevertheless, for most general photos of different subjects, you will be suprised at the rich quality of the prints. However, gradiants that change smoothly and gradually from one color to another may exhibit noticable dottiness that are sharper than what you'd see on the Epson Photo 700/EX printers. This slight dottiness generally is not a problem at handheld distances, but can be seen at 10" or closer. A fine photo printer now that the price is down to $199, but don't expect to do any decent plain paper printing with this one. |
Canon Printers <<Canon page>>Lexmark Printers <<Lexmark page>>
While color gradiants are smooth, areas which require black, such as grays, exhibit very noticible black dots in those areas due the deeper, richer black ink used in the Lexmark. Without a secondary, lighter gray/black, the Lexmark fails to produce gradients as smooth as the Epson 740 in these areas, and instead, one notices the dottiness of these areas. Also, minor color banding in areas of nearly identical colors. One would expect that with a minor software adjustment, you can rid youself of these banding artifacts, but on a company provided print sample? Without further high-quality print samples (I have just two), I must rank the Lexmark lower.
Excellent black text on any paper,
and better or equal to most laser printers. Unlike the sharp black dots,
color dots tend to bleed on plain paper, thus reducing the apparent quality
of the prints. Still a decent printer but outclassed by the newer
Epsons. Probably similar to the newer 5700 in quality with photo
cartridge.
Well, if it's not the photo Alps 1300, why bother? Sure, you can get a cheap inkjet for $100 that runs at 600x600 dpi, but for photo printing, you'll want to spend at least $230 for the excellent Epson Stylus Photo 700 (see www.shopper.com for price comparisons). Otherwise, a cheap printer will be perfect for those other projects like banners, cards, and things that look nice with a splash of color. Just remember though that like monitors, people tend to keep printers for many years and if you are in the market for one, you might as well get a nice, top-of- the-line printer in this category. People will say that oh, this printer is just as good as another for photo printing on inkjet or photo paper, but they haven't examined the print quality up close and compared test images intensively. If you don't look and notice the differences, then well, maybe it doesn't matter to you the resolution of the prints or the color gamut available. If you don't look closely enough, then you won't notice the differences anyways. In that case, pick whichever printer you like and use that. (this applies to all things in life -- if you don't notice or don't care, then don't spend the extra money for what you'll never see/use/care. bad analogy time: some people will notice a little ding in their cars right away, other will never even notice -- but still, there's a difference.) Nevertheless, if you print a wall-sized image at 1400 dpi with the highest quality inkjet printer you can get, it will not only look stunning at a distance, but up close as well. Dot Size Having wondered at what dot size is actually being produced by the various printers, I went home and threw all of my Epson and HP print samples under a 30x scope.
The Epson 600/800/850/1520/3000 series of printers are last years printers. They have a dot that is about the same size as the HP 720/890/1120/2000 series of printers (when the HP is tossing out a big dot - remember, it can vary dot size smaller).
The HP can make the dot a little smaller to give you the additional color gradiants that they toot as RET II. However, you can clearly see the dots seperated by clear areas in between and these HP printers are definetely running on a 600x600 resolution mechanical step. This means, no matter how hard you try, the HPs will not print a line that is finer than the 600x600 dpi resolution. IE. So much for fine details. Another very disturbing note is that the HP RET II dots are not round!!! From plain paper to inkjet paper to photo paper, the damned HP RET II dots are teardrop shaped and are not Epson Sylus round dots. What this means is that additionally, when you try to print fine lines on the HP, they will not be completely of one color from side to side. Instead, they will exhibit a slightly lighter color on the thin end of the teardrop edge, and the darker color on the head of the teardrop end (assuming the line is printed perpendicular to the print head movement). Thus, what is disturbing about the HP printers is that not only do they run off a 600x600 dpi mechanical stepper, they can't even print a decent solid line!
Even better than the 740 at 3 pl., resulting in a new level of inkjet print standards. The first 4-color inkjet printer to match a 6-color inkjet, ie. Epson 700/EX printers, IMO and a fine, fast printer overall for both photo and business use. The dots are dots, even if a bit eggshapped now and then (hey, you can make those flying dots perfectly round all the time), but still, clearly round-like dots. The older series of printers, 600/800/850/1520/3000, all have a dot that is as large as the 10 picoleter maxiumum dot that the HP can produce. One the plus side, they run at 1440x720 and is much better than the HP resolution wise. This itself will produce prints that are 'better' than the HP printers, and many photo-paper printouts support this fact. A higher resolution print will look crisper than a lower resolution print.
The 6 picolitre dot that they advertise for the 740 beats HPs 10 picolitre dot, and makes for the amazing plain paper and inkjet paper printouts I have at hand. In fact, the smaller dots are still well defined on plain paper (less bleeding due to less ink absorbtion into the paper), and this results in the nice, smoothness I mentioned earlier about the Stylus 740 series on both plain and, even better, inkjet papers. I'd buy the 740 over the 850 for the fact that it uses 6 picolitre droplet size alone and gander at my very smooth output prints from the 740.
Photo 700/Photo EX dots are larger than the 6-picolitre dots in the 740 but the use of 6-colors makes the 700/PhotoEX the winner in photo printing on inkjet/photo paper. The 740 will never be a photo-like as the 6-color 700/EX printers, but very close. And unless you're a real nit-picker, you won't notice the difference at 12" or farther on inkjet or photo paper from any of these printers under most situations. You will be able to see more grain on the 740 output, but if you can see that and the grain on the 700/EX printers, why didn't you just get an Alps 1300 in the first place, duh!? |
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Thanks David for the excellent and in-depth review. Very informative to say the least. Have a look at the threads in the newsgroup where the above article first appeared and have been discussed further:-